the times they are a changin'

Arriving in Bangkok is always a coming home feeling for me. This year marks the 16th successive January I have flown from Canada to Thailand where I get to seek out treasures for our business, The Green Gecko. Even in those 1 1/2 decades Thailand (and the World!) has changed;  technology, tourism ebbs and flows, politics, climate. To name a few. After the long flights, as soon I as feel the humid hot air of Bangkok, I feel calmed to be back in my second home. The familiarity is wonderful but Its always interesting to see what has evolved since I was here last.

Keeping in touch sure has changed. Sixteen years ago it was thrilling to touch base with those at home through email. Unless you had the budget to be carrying around a laptop (remember when those were expensive and not just dispensable toys?) or stayed at an upscale hotel, you went to an internet cafe and paid by the minute to access your email.  Now, on arrival I switch my home SIM card for a Thai one and my phone sits in my pocket continually buzzing in new emails and notifications.

I've seen the tourism climate change. More and more western style businesses, chain restaurants and hotels have sprung up catering to the adventure-seeker-who-still-wants-home-comforts. 

We were here in the recent times of political unrest when wearing a red shirt or yellow shirt declared your political allegiance and therefore they stayed in our suitcases.  That visit we checked the news daily to keep up to date on protest locations and incidents.

This year, arriving in Jan 2017, I knew there would be an immediate difference.  In the time I had been away the King of Thailand had died. The public announcement was made on Oct 13, 2016.  King Bhumibol Adulyadej had acceded the thrown in 1946. He had reined for 70 of his 88 years. When he passed, the King of Thailand was the longest living reigning monarch in the world.

photo credit: Thailand's King Bhumibol Adulyadej: A life in pictures

Many Thais have known no other monarch. The length of his reign is significant. I am astonished by the changes in this country in 16 years, imagine his perspective. He reigned over more than 20 prime ministers.  Through seven decades King Bhumibol Adulyadej was a calming influence over the Thai people.  

This is a famous picture of the King. He is well known for the time he took to travel to even the most rural parts of the country and listen to the people.

The King was an avid photographer. He is often depicted with a camera in hand. (credit: Patrick AVENTURIER / Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

For those of us, like me, who have not lived with monarchy as a daily part of our lives its seems unusual to see people grieve so intensely for a man they had never met but to the Thais their king was a king of the people. He was seen as the father of Thailand and commanded much love and respect from Thais. Friends who live in Bangkok told me that in the days and weeks after his death the melancholy in the city was palpable. 

Although Thailand is officially a democracy and the monarch has no formal political role, King Bhumibol was widely regarded as a unifying figure in Thailand. He stood as a symbol of continuity for a country that has lived through a number of governments ousted by military coups. 

Did you know King Bhumibol could make it rain? He held a patent (European) for "weather modification by royal rainmaking technology," described as a system of chemicals that can boost and move clouds in order to trigger rainfall. He developed this to aide drought stricken rural areas.
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We have made a point to express to each of our close Thai friends and business associates our condolences for their King. There is true appreciation in their face when we show this respect.  This is literally life changing for them.

All government buildings and many businesses display black and white drape like this.

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This brings me back to how Bangkok was different this year. A year of mourning has been declared. The intensity of mourning has three landmarks: 30 days, 100 days and 1 year. Civil servants have been ordered to wear black for a year. Typically mourning clothing is worn by Thais for 1 month, but it seems most Thais will choose to wear black or white for the entire year. In the same manner all celebrations were canceled for 30 days and are to be toned down for one year.

The first thing we noticed is that 98% of people were wearing the mourning colours of black and white. What an interesting scene on the streets to see crowds of people without a stitch of colour.

We saw this display honouring the King on a street corner.

The clothing markets are one of my favorite places to go. I love the fabrics, the creativity of styles, the colors....

This time I encountered shop after shop of black and white clothing.

That's not to say there was no color to be found. Many shops like this one still stocked their usually array of colored items, but the front displays were dedicated to black and white.

In the street markets it was the same, black in front, colors in the back. After all, there are still tourists to sell colors to. In fact the more touristy the area, the more color you saw.

Also for sale are a wide array of black t-shirts with various motifs declaring love for the King.  Here's Peter is his. The english script says "Always our beloved father".  Our Thai friend said the Thai script adds "do something he would do". Known for being intelligent, calm and generous, doing something King Bhumibol Adulyadej would do is not a bad daily mantra.

As I speak with Thai people about their King, I am struck by the solidarity his passing has brought. Thailand, as most countries, has it's share of differences. Just like at home people debate politics and religion, sometimes to extremes. Maybe the recent political climate at home has made me more sensitive? I found it interesting and heartening to see something bring people together despite their other differences.