The Thais have a knack for bluntness.  Recently at a restaurant we frequent the owner came up to me and said “Last year when you come, you fat, now you slim, body like Miss Universe”.  That’s a direct quote. I’m thinking I should just take the Miss Universe compliment and run!

I know some of this bluntness comes from the language barrier.  When you are not fluent in a language you often sound more blunt than you intend because you don’t know the nuances of the language.  This was likely the case this time and Mr. Restaurant did mean it as a compliment.  And he’s right, I have shed a few pounds since my last trip here, but I didn’t think he’d notice?

But his comment got me thinking about how Thai’s really do often ‘say it as it is’.  I’ve seen a girl looking for someone and ask me “Have you seen my friend, she’s fat and has short hair”.  It’s not an insult, it’s just a description.

I think this may come from one of the Thai cultural aspects I truly admire.  They seem to be able to laugh at themselves. They don’t take life too seriously.  Thailand is known as The Land of Smiles.  And I think it’s well earned.  The people naturally smile a lot.  And genuinely so.
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They also laugh a lot.  In a group they will often laugh at someone, but it has feeling of ‘laughing with them’ not ‘at them’.

This is a picture I took last year at a political protest in Bangkok.  

This light-hearted approach is a truly refreshing view on life.  Maybe if I can laugh at myself more, and worry about the judgments of others less; I can feel less stress in my life?  It’s a good idea because this ‘Ms. Universe body’ is not going to last long, I love Thai food so much I’m eating pretty much constantly.  Soon Mr. Restaurant will see me and say ‘What happen, now you get more fat again?” and you know what, I can just laugh right along with him!! 
 
 
When I'm in Bangkok I try to find a spare hour to wonder around the flower market.  It's about 5 blocks long and 2 blocks wide of shops and street vendors selling only flowers.  Surrounded by millions of blossoms; being in the middle of it is almost fairy tale-like. When I was there a few days ago it was late afternoon and the flowers were arriving by the truck-load for the evening market.  Truck after truck full of flowers.  Petite roses to orchids, to lotus, to long stem roses that standing came up to my chest. 
Bangkok, by global terms, is not a really dirty city but compared to Canada it definitely has a grungy factor.  It's not uncommon to be hit with a waft of urine that almost makes your eyes water when you step over a sewer grate. (Even the locals are seen covering their nose with their shirt sleeve.)  Walking through the flower market you're transported to a magical place of beautiful colours and scents. 
Roses, Roses, and more Roses...
Many of these flowers are destined for hotels, restaurants and spas as decor.  You'll often get an orchid (that at home is so extravagant)  as a garnish on your cocktail. If I lived here, I'd have fresh blooms in my home all the time (you wouldn't believe how cheap it is!)

In Thailand, flowers are more than just beauty and aroma. They represent a part of the Buddhist culture. Everyday thousands of blooms will be given as offerings at temples.  Many will also be used to show respect for ancestors long gone. 
This woman is weaving flowers into an offering wreath. 
These will be taken to temples as offerings. They will also be hung (with a prayer for safety, good sales, etc) on car mirrors, boats and shop entrances.
Many of are made with jasmine flowers and the scent is truly heavenly.
Lotus flowers are also often given as offerings at the temples. 
In Buddhism the lotus flower is associated with purity, spiritual awakening and faithfulness. The flower is considered pure as it is able to emerge from murky waters in the morning and be perfectly clean.



The flotus flower is considered pure as it is able to emerge from murky waters in the morning and be perfectly clean.
 
 
Last week we took a short jaunt into Southern Laos.  We have both been to Laos before but never this particular area in the South known as the 4000 islands.  Situated on the Mekong River the area is dotted with many small (and some larger) islands.  Depending on the season (rainy or dry) the number of islands visible fluctuates.

Laos is known for its quiet, calm atmosphere and people.  It is a much poorer country than Thailand, which is obvious as soon you cross the border.  The country is very rural and agricultural (mostly rice).  Some Laotions grow crops and fish commercially but many live day to day harvesting or fishing for their daily family needs.  Of course with the growing tourist industry some have found new careers as boat taxis, restaurant or guesthouse owners. But for most Laotions life has been pretty much the same for many generations. 

More recent conveniences like motorbikes and boat motors have made life a little easier.  And like almost everywhere in Asia it seems like most people have a cell phone.  (people who live in the a tiny thatch hut with no water or electricity still have a cell phone?!)

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To get to the port we took a local ‘bus’. Basically a truck with wood bench seats in the back.  You get can get about 30 people in the back of this.  It’s 90km from the border town to the port town.  It took 3.5 hours on the ‘bus’ which included many stops for people to get on and off.  Or unload goods to be delivered.

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At stops along the way women will come up to the truck with snacks and drinks to sell. This woman had whole BBQ chicken on a stick.  (that’s the feet at the top).  The flies and the ants on it probably indicate it is not too safe for ‘foreign stomachs’.

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This is the ferry that took us to the island.

With all the different islands, the river is wide and slow in some spots and faster with rapids in others.
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Here, the other side of the river is Cambodia.

It was pretty hot, 30-34C, and the water can looking inviting for cooling off. Not sure I'd want to float into a water buffalo who also like to cool off in the river with just their heads above water. (not to mention the Mekong is known for it's river flukes.)
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These kids were having a blast paying with this boat.  No clothes and, at this moment, no worries.  Truly kids being kids, no video games or tvs in sight.  

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Laos is about 60% Buddhist. The remaining practice animism or ancestry worship and a very small minority are Christians and Muslims  This is the entrance to a Buddhist temple.  This temple was built on the site of a Khmer temple,  you can still see some of the ruins of the original 1000+ year old temple.

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Laos was occupied by the French from the late 1800's until it was given independence in 1953.  Some French Colonial buildings are still around, most in ruins like this one. The local school is located behind this building so the kids were playing games out front.


Since Independence Laos has struggled politically and financially and is officially a communist country.  Laos holds a record not to be proud of.  It is the most bombed country in the world.  During the Vietnam war Northern Laos was heavily bombed. According to official figures, the US dropped 2,093,100 tons of bombs on 580,944 sorties. The total cost was US$7.2 billion, or US$2 million a day for nine years. (wow)

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As with most undeveloped countries people are usually quite industrious.  This man is 'sewing' his fishing net.  I also found the hammock ,made from a single piece of bamboo, pretty ingenious.

The traditional fishing method on this part of the Mekong is to stand at the front of a small boat and throw a net with a weighted edge out into the water, then gather it in; hopefully with a fish or 2 caught in it.  I can only imagine it take a bit of practice to be able to throw the net and be successful.
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These women are peeling yaro to dry for food.

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The yaro laid out on the ground to dry.  A safe (?) distance has been left around the water buffalo paddy.  yum?

Sunset on the Mekong River.  
Seeing new sites, meeting new people, experiencing new food and seeing first hand local traditions.  To me, the best part of any trip.
 
 
On arriving in Bangkok I usually have one thing on my mind; some sleep is usually needed after the long trip from Canada; but first, FOOD.  It’s hard to go anywhere in Bangkok and not be surrounded by the aromas of various food.  Thai’s are fantastic at cooking up amazing dishes in a flash.  Bangkok is well known for it’s Street Food.  Which generally refers to vendors with carts that each specialize in one item or dish. 
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A typical street food stall selling noodle soup with chicken.

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One of my favorite places to eat in Bangkok is not quite street food, but also, it’s not really a restaurant.  These on-the-spot-eateries, often set up at night, turn a street corner into a make-shift restaurant.  Plastic stools and tables will start to be pulled out just before dusk (around 5pm) and the cooking will be done at a mobile kitchen.  One I love to visit we affectingly call the ‘7-11 Restaurant’ because it is on the corner where a 7-11 convenience store is.  It’s a short walk from our hotel and is open late into the night.  They always have an array of Thai dishes ready.  And several on the go.

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It’s run by a group of 4 guys who look younger than they likely are.  They are slammin’ busy every night and for good reason, they just keep pumping out the amazing food. 

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      Multi tasking   :)

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 The dishes are displayed in trays on the cart, You just start pointing at what looks good and they start dishing it up.  Of course served with rice.  One of my favorites is panang curry with pork.  The best panang curry I’ve had!  They also make this amazing pork with green beans in a sweet-hot chili sauce.  The last time I had Thai green curry from these guys I think I burnt a whole layer of my stomach lining off.  But it was SO GOOD!
A meal for 2 people with 3 dishes, and rice costs about $3 CND.

Sounds super cheap, but depending on your comfort level there is some compromise. You are literally sitting on the street on a plastic stool.  If a large vehicle comes by you may have to get up and move your table over to let it through.  And likely all of the exhaust fumes don’t do us much good, but the air quality in Bangkok sucks anyway.  To me these are small compromises and the people watching is also great entertainment.

When you’re having your meal and your lips are about to fall off from the heat you’ll likely need a cold beer.  These guys won’t sell you one, they tell you to just go into the 7-11 and get yourself one.  So, in addition to great food, you get beer with no mark up. Cool.
 
 
I've had the privilege to travel to other countries.  I have observed and experienced the lives of others.  Sometimes I am hit with an overwhelming thankfulness for being Canadian.  Something I had no role in deciding.  Was it luck that I was born here and not in a grass hut in rural India?  
Are there things that could be improved in Canada?  Sure!  Our country is far from perfect. But it is a REALLY great place to live.  Sick?  Walk into a hospital and someone will help you without first asking if you can pay the bill.  Need to commune with nature?  Even if you live in the biggest Canadian city a pristine natural experience is only few hours drive away.  Truly amazing!  

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A picture from Lower Beverly Lake, less than 5 minutes from The Gecko.

When you travel through other countries.  "Where are you from?" is a standard question.   It's a way of people assessing you.  I am always very proud to say "I am Canadian."   Usually you are asked for your country even before your name. Actually, often you're never asked your name and are referred to as 'the Canadian' by 'the German'. 
I hope today everyone in my country stops for a moment to be Happy to be Canadian.  I know I am!
Happy Birthday Canada!
 
 
Chinese New Year in Thailand is a fairly big deal, there is a large population of Thai-Chinese.  These hold dear thier Chinese culture and traditions.  The New Year for Chinese is a time of renewal.  A time when you can rid yourself of the errors of the past year and renew your 'luck' for the next year.  For a week or so before the new year date you will see businesses and homes owned by Thai-Chinese busily cleaning from top to bottom. It's a fresh start and should be given the best chance.
The Chinese year follows the lunar calendar so the new year falls on a different day each year.   This year it was Mon. Jan 23.  Since many businesses are closed we took the day to enjoy the celebrations in China Town.
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I often walk when I'm in Bangkok - you see so much more when you are walking than when you are in a vehicle.  We stopped for something to eat and I couldn't resist taking a picture of this man who sat beside us.  It was scorching hot and he was wearing a fleece lined ear-muff hat.  He did order and ice-tea (to cool off?).  He was just too cute for words!

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As we walked closer to China Town,  New Year decorations appeared.  Red, the colour for good luck, is everywhere.  Chinese lanterns were hung in the streets.

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Everyone seemed to be stopping to get thier picture taken beside these lanterns, so I thought I'd join in. Can't hurt to wish for a little New Year Good Luck of my own! 

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A group of school girls pose for a picture.  So cute!

We arrive at the market in China Town.  This area is always a market, and I go every year to see what I might find, but today for new year celebrations there are extra vendors and definately more people.
fabrics
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fresh pomegranate juice

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 Me being me, I managed to find a shop with a fantastic sale on jewelry.  Couldn't resist!  Even though I had to lug around the 4kg bag the rest of the day. Totally worth it.

After snapping up a few more deals, we made our way to the centre of the celebrations.
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The gates into the celebration.  

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It was the start of the year of the dragon.  Lots of dragon souvenirs to be had.

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It's crowded!

Much like a carnival at home, there was food, food and more food.
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pork & crispy pork skin

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fresh strawberries (covered in a mixture of sugar and dried chilies)

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satay

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steamed dim sum

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boiled chicken

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BBQ chicken

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We decided on duck soup for lunch.

These 2 girls were hilarious - walking advertisements for a dried seaweed snack product.  (it's good, a lot like potato chips - really!)
Then, the climax of the day, the Queen & Princess of Thailand were arriving to perform the opening ceremonies.  We honkered down with the locals and tourists alike who were all vying for a good view.  The monarchy in Thailand are very revered.  The Thais love thier royality especially the King. And deservedly so, he is an excellent leader and does much for the Thai people and the country.  You never (ever, ever, ever) speak poorly of the King.  In fact, they recently passed a new law, if you are caught sending an email that slanders the King, you can face a large fine and jail time!



We all waited patiently for their arrival.
The streets were cleared and police security was everywhere.
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These are the Queen & Princess' escorts, but pictures of the royalty is strictly forbidden.

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It was well after dark before we started walking for home.  When I got back I looked at the map and figure we clocked an easy 35km of walking.  Starting the new year with sore feet but a full belly...life is good.  Happy Chinese New Year!

 
 
Arriving in Bangkok feels a bit like coming home.  After the long flights and boring layovers, when I walk off the plane and the hot humid air hits me, I suddenly feel great!

I've been coming to SE Asia yearly for 12 years.  This is now the 7th trip that I will spend most of my time seeking out additions for the shelves of my little gift shop in Eastern Ontario. By my side is my husband (or I should say, I am by his side, since he has been coming to SE Asia every winter for 27years!) Can't wait to see what this year's adventure holds!

Our first meal is always at this tiny restaurant. I literally dream of the curry here when I'm at home!  This spot gives "hole in the wall" a good name.
The two lovely sisters here cook up curries and other delicious Thai food from around 4am to 2pm daily.  The place is packed almost anytime you arrive. You get chicken curry & vegetables on rice for less than a $1 Canadian.  Amazing!
One of the parts of Thai culture I find fascinating is that the Buddhist religion permeates into all aspects of their lives.  It's feels not so much like a religion (go to church on Sundays, try to be good...) more of a lifestyle.  Almost all businesses and homes have a shrine - here's the one at the restaurant, squeezed into a corner by the dish-pit, but still very dominant. You often see Thais making an offering to a shrine, or at least wai-ing (putting your palms together and bowing as a motion of respect).  Sometimes it gives you pause - the prostitute who stops when passing a temple to wai.  And then there's the taxi driver who while driving in the traditional reckless Asian city manor, takes both hands off the wheel to wai as we pass a temple. 
Oh, I LOVE being here!
 
 
My friend said "you should write a blog"
"hmmm...really. really?"
"sure, everyone's doing it"
I faintly hear my mom's voice in my head 'if all your friends were jumping off a bridge....'
"write about what?"
"your travels, how you find what you will sell in your shop"
"kind of like writing post cards home?" I could do that. that's not hard.